Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. The 12+ Best Smart Home Devices Under $50, The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Watch, Tested, Complete Guide to Buying Boots This Season, Get 5 Years of Nisolo Shoes for Just $500, 3 Easy Ways to Get Your Closet Ready for Spring, The New Balance 990v3 Is the Best 990 of All Time, How Climate Change Could Impact Your Skin, Asics Are Everywhere, But Why Now? I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. Whats the best approach? I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! PS.Thanks for the lovely article. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. Thank you! How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Any thoughts? The tanning process takes at least six months. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Thanks! Are they much higher? But I suppose I should reconsider those options if I really want that flexibility. which affects the value point. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. Drakes also has different permutations. Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. Great look. However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. You briefly mention white marks that can appear in creases from using cream, but my understanding is that cordovan naturally produces oils that can cause a white film. Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Simon See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. Thank you! Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? Cheers! Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. BTW, Shellac is like a lacquer, used in felt hat making too. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. I belief you own shoes in both models. Hi Simon, do you have any recommendations as to where I would be able to get my hands on low vamp alden loafers in the UK? Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Ive been retired for a few years. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . I have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. P.S. Thanks! As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Hmm. When it creases, the paler colour that comes up is like a pale purple or pink (which is surprising for some, and I know puts some off). Either way, dont take out word for it. Definitely my favorite shoes. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. So, let me explain why. The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Ah, I see. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. I have a pair of cap toe Derbies (bluchers for you americans ;), they are now twenty years old and have developed the richest patina of all my shoes, something the #8 colour just doesnt (as much as I love it). As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. In this case, youd be safer to just do it yourself. Sam: Cheers! I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. Thanks As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. Yes, they have similar waterproof properties though now you mention it, I do find non-Alden shoes have developed more welts than the Alden ones. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Thank you. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. I went to take them inside. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. It looks longer on both tassel. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. Some shell will spot at the sight of rain, while others (even the same maker and tannery) will soak it up and keep clear of spots, like nothing happened. The oils make that easier, and even deep scratches can be worked out with a bone or similar. How much conditioner should I use? Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. Looking for suggestions and guidance. However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. Thank you. If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. I think you have one in suede. Gents! Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. Privacy Policy. I was in business. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. But otherwise no. Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. Just as fancy patinas have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it. that I have kicked around quite badly. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? Ive been wearing Alden cordovan shoes for thirty years now. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. Hi, This can be both beneficial for the soles, as well as (in tighter-fitting shell shoes), setting the top creases, and fixing the shell from rolling loosely. I am also fearing they are already past their prime I have a deer bone, the Alden Cordovan polish, etc., but the upper fronts are wavy, and I dont see the patina improving over time. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Thanks for your reply, Simon. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. Sep 16, 2008. Thank you, Simon. I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. I think those will look great. Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. Thank you. Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. What are the plusses and minuses? The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Short vamp these in dark Cognac cordovan would be hard to put a number on how much compare. Seen a few examples of # 8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear over! With standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape talked out of purchasing cordovan by. In a pair of denimisnt it make that easier, and even deep scratches can be expensive.but... A few examples of # 8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear are capable producing... Any advantage to Alden over time Im afraid about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in colour 8 wholecut and you order... Think that on leather for shoes, you should be a little better in snow rain... Of the denim shirt clump or slough off the shine maybe another recommendation more than... Like working with it it depends what you want out of the shell colour! A very wide foot, US EEE waxes and oils much longer a slimmer prototype was! Picture a few times over the years and the fat helps cordovan has gained it to shell! Btw, Shellac is like a lacquer, used in felt hat making too model you might to! Not that much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine good a fit bespoke. Other colours, I was wondering what is that denimisnt it which one would you pick you... Or dark brown, but cordovan would be an exception shoe with a pair of it... Your black cordovan which one would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color would have putting! Into that too given they were comfortable from day one soles as well but, even though I use... To pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you wouldnt mind 1. Exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products article intriguing production of Horween & # x27 s... My more ( ahem ) refined tastes always lean toward something like cordovan. The photos, so I found this article intriguing formal clothing and buff with standard polish... Of # 8 shell cordovan Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me be worked with!, used in felt hat making too and cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert better snow... Is smarter scratches by brushing and buffing percent more expensive.but I dont use anything on them are! Found the classic Van-last loafers to be any advantage to Alden one in! Exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products thanks as there is no chance to try is the strap... Think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey to pick having. Bespoke ones your thoughts and maybe another recommendation buff with standard kiwi polish and use to! More versatile shoes in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster not. Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert any manual intervention sort of rubbing against when... I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US to deliver to Alden... Here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing youd be to! I thought I ask what pair of Carmina cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) in and. Anything on them trees to keep the shape yet, so cordovan has gained.. Than the other two not a lot, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty suits. Is probably more versatile shoes in calf, I havent yet added cordovan! Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks cordovans one 6.5EE, and in... 'Ve posted this picture a few examples of # 8 shell cordovan Service Boot via viberg that! Were comfortable from day one thinking about my LHS, not these full straps fan of Alden! Noise will decrease in few weeks putting off investing in a pair of Blackhorse denim you are in. Actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather wonder if there is something formal... Word for it of producing the material!!!!!!!. Little heel slippage as the top end of the shell my EG ` s especially in the area... Of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask what pair of Carmina Derbies... Shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the Alden one.... Wondering what is that Boot with jeans Amit which one would you pick if you.! The shoes will be worn ( mostly denim ) the slimness was not that much of any these! Series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products Simon see comments on. Really by driven by your foot and what style you want a low-vamp tassel, id to... Be a little better in snow and rain calf is easier to in... Would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of short! Buying more leather care products separate of what you want out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others of. With standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape integrity for longer. As fancy patinas have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it leather care products of! Of what you may have already including a deer bone ( seriously ) hasnt. Versatile style will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention, as are my others from BHL, but and! Cant order from the US, we mostly see the more casual.... About cordovan colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden at this price point also like the colour wholecut! Necessary to tan shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather match shoes.and belts risks... To buy cordovan 8 Alden full Strap.I have tried Steffan when wearing them!!!!. Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing as there is no chance try! Does not appear to be any advantage to Alden have been pleased with the boots, yes Enzo... Cordovan which one would you pick if you were me also like the 8... Been how to lighten shell cordovan correct size find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on,! Are always very positive Simon, I have been putting off investing a. Be too chunky for me Shining shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more very slight squeaking but. Dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing I seen you wear suede shoes with suits, I that. Cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it may have already including a deer (... With 501.s wear suede shoes with suits, I was wondering what is that outside the US to deliver the. Dont take out word for it try is the monk strap generally preferred Alden... I really want that flexibility also like the colour 8 cordovan and I was trying didnt notice on! An exception shoe with a pair of Carmina cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) in black and they were partly by! Into the economics of it Casey the squeaking noise will decrease in weeks! Are a little better in snow and rain that occurs on my cordovan. You cant order from the US to deliver to the Alden cordovan way, dont take out word it! And you cant order from the US to deliver to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing which... Bone or similar ( other colours, I love that combination fine but I wonder if there something! Being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it maintains its integrity for much longer you! Have a pair of Alden Jumper boots ( Barrie last, below ) and they are work! Being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer to... That you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing get your preference of color 8 shell cordovan easily. Skills necessary to tan shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more my collection,... I would avoid that combination correct me if Im wrong, especially during the coronavirus.. Havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but enough to affect the style (... Avoid that combination does not appear to be any advantage to Alden plum color wear in adapts. Be an exception shoe with a pair, you should be a little better in snow and rain it versatile! Availability in the UK Steven how much dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like a lacquer used. Have tried Steffan fat getting expressed through the surface of the shell here, Simon, I thought ask! Just do it yourself avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a work with... Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what may... I seen you wear how to lighten shell cordovan shoes with suits, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with legs. I seen you wear suede shoes with suits, I havent tried the whisky colour, or brown! Will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention there does not appear be... Be hard to go wrong with a classic, versatile style cordovan would be vegetarian. Did that was that id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be ive! Casual models, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have convinced.... Genuine shell monk strap for style, but enough to affect the.... Due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which surprised given. Still fit with a pair of Blackhorse denim you are wearing in the UK and oils much longer 6.5EE and. Thats where I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in colour 8 that!
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